Haraspex
Articles
1) This is where you will start for this model. I have all the wire armatures cut and bent into the position I want for the model I will be sculpting. I use a strong steel wire that allows me control over the putty as it sets, this prevents the putty from moving around a lot when trying to apply the base to the armature.
2) These are the tools of the trade. Even my personal sculpting tools are in this picture. I use them most frequently and rarely even need anything else other than my fingers. The saw you see is a jewelers saw and you can acquire one for about $15-30 depending on the quality. The device with the drill bit is a pin vice. This is essential for pinning pieces as it allows you to drill carefully and no slipping destroying detail. The green and yellow stuff is, you guessed it, green stuff. Mixing the two parts creates the chain reaction in the putty allowing you to sculpt beautiful works of art. Two more pieces of equipment I use are not shown in the picture. One is a cup filled with water. This cup is vital for keeping green stuff from sticking to my tools. The other is apoxie sculpt, it is another epoxy I use for sculpting with. Here are two links for getting your own apoxie sculpt: Aves Studios, and green stuff: AnyInc.
3) This is the basic putty stage. Here I bulk out the form of the model to use as an armature to sculpt details and forms upon. As you can see the shape can be very basic at this stage and does not require much detail or even form to do it's job.
4) Once again this is the base of the model. My first application of putty was to thin for the design I want. I am thinking of a large upper bodied beast moving along on scything talons in the same manner a silver back gorilla chases it's enemies. I just added more putty over the existing armature, very simple fix. You could also carve putty away if you applied to much, this stage makes fixes rather easy to do.
5) I've included the picture to show how important it is to think about where you will set your model when done working on it and need a place to set it down. Remember you are going to have to set the sculpture down some time unless you plan to hold it for 2-3 hrs. Here I just took a block of foam and set the piece on top so none of the fresh putty is touching any object that could ruin the details.
6) This is the first detail added to the model. I almost finished the entire tail in one piece. I evenly applied putty around the armature, took my spoon shaped tool and pressed into the putty cutting groves around the tail. This took all of about five min. I let the putty sit about one hour and then when it was not as soft pressed tiny flat shapes all over the tail, conforming to the curves I created and not distorting the shape of each plate. This smooths out the finger prints and also creates a bone texture that shows up nicely when painted. I then took my thin knife edged tool and created splits into the chitin of the tail. This also helps with painting and creates a nice texture and very tough leather like appearance. Both the tools I used for this part of the model are shown above in the tool photograph.
7) In this photo you see the next stage of the model. I always do the rib cage first so that the back plates can wrap down around the sides and overlap it. I used the spoon shaped tool in the photo above, the one on the right out of the two sculpting tools.
As you can see in this detail the basic shape was formed. The surface is not smooth, and the edges are not very sharp yet. I cut the plates in with the spoon edge of my tool, pressing an edge in the direction I want the plates to run. The basic shape is there so now I will let it set about one hour before tightening it up.
8) Now you can see the rib cage after I let it set and tightened up the putty. I also added a few more details that would have been impossible to add when the putty was to soft. Getting a small series of ripples when putty is soft sometimes move the base work to far out of shape so that symmetry can be hard to get.
Here is a close up of the rib cage. Notice how I tried to make the lower area separate slightly from the mass of the upper sternum. This was done while the putty was setting up more, otherwise I would have blended the two ribs together and the feel you have here would be lost.
9) This is when I started adding the back plates. I just pressed some putty on and quickly pinched up a few spinal plates that I wanted crests on. Notice I did not spend much time on this step, however I did try and lay a even layer on the surface. Try not to get a thick spot in one area and a thin spot somewhere else, even it out.
10) Once again here I cut the plates in with my spoon tool. This is an important process for creating plates fast and directing the shape they are positioned in. You can also roll thick coils, lay them on the model, squish them down and make a single plate. You let it set and then overlap another and repeat this until finished. That method takes a lot longer however and does not let you control the putty as much.
11) Once again I let the putty sit, around one hour. I then came back and finished the surface, lightly tapping the surface with my spoon tool removing any marks and evening out the plates so that they flowed together nicely. I also added a little more edging to the model where the plates meet the rib cage. It's important not to forget that area. I tighten up the edges, making nice shape separations, this is done with the knife edged tool.
12) This stage is very small but worth mentioning. I let the putty set even longer and then added tiny splits or marks along the edges of the plates. This helps painting and makes a few battle damaged areas or aged plates. Makes the top layer look tough and capable of withstanding bolter fire with ease.
13) Here is the armature for the head with it's extended plate. I used green stuff for this part because I can spread it thin without worrying to much about it tearing and it is a little harder than apoxie sculpt when first mixed. This is a bad batch or old putty. You can see the lumps in the photo. This occurs from putty setting to long or sometimes the center of the two parts sets over age. I cut the center out but here it was not needed as it is only a support structure. I have never had issues with apoxie sculpt aging and becoming bad or less effective.
14) This is the back side, or underside of the plate. I have just began the basic detail of this part. I quickly cut the surface separations and let it set to harden slightly.
15) Here you can see the finished underside of the head crest. I have created a series of tubes running under the surface. This was done when the putty was hard so the tiny separations could be created. I also tried to create some over lap but most details will be hidden when the head is attached anyway.
16) I included a photo of the model with it's legs attached. I drilled hoes for the armatures and then used super glue to attach them. I let it set on a sponge so that the legs would not be pressed against the top of my desk. I wanted the legs to stay in this position.
17) Here you can see the first part of the back leg. I added this apoxie and then let it set so I could tighten the piece and make it appear like bone or chitin. Here you can also see the separations of the back plates and the rib cage. I am going to build a hip structure that will set over the back legs. This must be done after the legs are finished. Try to think in layers so you can work ahead where needed.
18) Here you can see the position the model will stand in. This model is a version of an assault spawn and so I wanted it to appear as though it was rushing forward attacking with it's four scything talons. Notice the model stands as a tripod. I use this type of stance regularly. It is much easier to balance a tripod than when you have two or four limbs touching the ground. Even though it is mostly standing on armature wire, it is very sturdy and steady.
19) Here is the back side of the head crest. I skipped the basic stage and included the first tightening phase. This was done twice. Here I just started to form the edges and the crest separations. I will show the finished version in an upcoming photo.
20) This stage shows the first part of the limbs finished, and the start of the back legs. Since they will be thinner I used green stuff. It is a little easier to get thinner limbs sculpted with and can be stretched slightly easier. You can also see the neck armature was added and built up slightly. I used old green putty instead of wasting my good apoxie sculpt or green stuff.
21) This photo shows the basic neck fleshed out. I will wait for the putty to set slightly before finishing this part.
22) Here you can see a major difference in the last stage and the final sculpt. I made the neck appear to be made of several bones and slightly cure in one direction so as to appear less static. That also allows you to alter the symmetry without having to make the piece perfectly symmetrical.
23) This is a very important stage for me in the sculpting phase. It has to do with balance. How far can I push it, and how well will it work. Here I wanted a very heavily armored head and a creature rushing forward. I believe this pose and head achieves this. The position of the neck and head makes it seem as though the beast is rushing in head first ready to plow over a wall or tank. This model is heavily influenced by another artist known as "Verms1", and the alien queen.
24) You might have noticed the model had on hips, well that is about to change. I had to wait until most of the model was finished before starting this stage. Sculpting skills are important but knowing how to layer pieces to make your job easier is just as important. The hips had to be done after the legs were started. Sure I could have tried to sculpt them in with the legs but it is so much easier to do it in layers.
25) This is an exciting phase. I sculpted the face, it was done in one part. The details are always done in green stuff because it can take a little more abuse when working with it wet. It is a rather difficult thing to sculpt faces and with this model that was no exception. It is a matter of pushing and pulling the putty to create lines and ridges for the structure of the face. Teeth are done in a similar manner and then cut in with a fine edged tool. I also want to point out the mandible armature. I do not always have the entire armature made from the start. I also add to the model by drilling and gluing in pieces of armature as I work, this is a great example.
26) In this photo you can see the hip structure as it begins to build around the tail and the hips of the model. This was created with one layer of green stuff in a similar fashion as I sculpted the plates in apoxie sculpt. This helps add detail to the model and creates a layering effect of armored plates.
30) On this model I wanted sculpted scything talons instead of using plain plastic card. To get the effect I want I had to create an armature of putty to sculpt the detail layers over. You are seeing the armature layer here.
31) This photo shows the armatures for the scything talons laid out in putty. Now you can see the pose of the model a little easier and the beginning of the end for this creation. There is a lot of details to finish, such as the hoofs for the back legs, arm plates, and other nasty spikes here or there.
32) This is the detail layer for the scything talon spread across the armature and slightly pinched into shape. I will let this layer sit for a while before working on the details. I must note that the armature was very thin so that the second layer of putty will not make the blade to thick. This layer was spread on very thin as well.
33) The finished blade of the talon. This blade is also a spine fist and to represent that the holes in the blade were made for the spines to be fire out of the talon. I will add protective plates to the top of the talon and also the arms as one of the last stages.
34) Here is the putty applied to the top of the claw, you can see how I roll it out and then flatten the putty along the length I wish to apply the platted effect. I will have a series of photos showing how this plate effect is achieved and a shot of the tool as I press the putty into shape.
35) Here is the putty shaped into the desired plates, it is rather simple to achieve, using a spoon shaped tool I press the surface into the putty cutting ridges which I then shape and smooth into a even flow, the edges are then cut into with a knife tool for the crack like textures.
36) This is the stage after I set the putty in place and then press it into shape using the spoon tool. This same technique was used on the piece above, the next photo shows me using the tool as I cut the grove into the putty.
37) This is the tool I use for almost all of my plated models. I use this for cutting into the putty and carving or pressing layers into the model. Any time I use this tool it is for the procedure of cutting shapes into the putty or smoothing putties together, blending if you will.
38) This photo is a view of the model almost finished. I want to show how much the model changes over time. The little details I will add will stand out when compared to this photo later. In all actual purposes this model is finished. It has enough detail and looks good, however I will be adding small details next. This becomes tedious and also can be a slow process. I hate to do to many details at once because it is a common problem to squish something you are working on with a finger while holding it.
39) This photo shows the model from the front. I believe it captures the idea of this beast slashing out at it's prey.
40) Here is a view of the model from the back, you can now see how the pieces are starting to flow together.
41) I wanted to include this photo for an explanation on blending putty together. Here you can see how two different putties are jointed together. Because they are of different colors you can see the joint, however when painted it is not visibly seen. I use the spoon shaped tool and lightly drag the putty back like stitching onto the other surface. You can see the tiny tool marks where it was dragged back. After I get a good connection I go back and even out the transition of the two putties.
42) This is the last stage of this model. I did not like the way the head was changing from the flat head to the face and so added a crest for more dimension. Once painted this piece will blend seamless into the head and will not even be visible. I have added a few other details which can be viewed on the finished gallery page by clicking here. I skipped these stages as they were simple principles that were already explained several times. I hope this article helps you understand my process of building a bio-titan. There are many other ways to approach this model and I hope you decide or develop your own creatures.